Sharma: Possible 5.15b in Spain

Chris Sharma has completed a project at Siurana, Spain, that he believes could be as hard as 9b (5.15b). Golpe de Estado is a direct version of Estado Critico (5.14c/d), linking a 5.14d start into 5.14c climbing with a poor rest in between.

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Sharma sends big new 5.15b

Chris Sharma has redpointed Neanderthal (9b/5.15b), a big, bad mamma-jamma at Santa Linya, Spain. This 40-meter route features sustained, bouldery climbing to a difficult dyno at the lip of the crag's mammoth cave.

According to a description on the Low Down blog, the first half of Neanderthal is a 5.14d, with climbing punctuated by four distinct difficult sections of V9-ish climbing. There's a shake after the fourth V9, but still, after all that climbing, the hardest moves are yet to come. The dyno--which may be as difficult as V11--goes off a crimp and two finger pocket to stick a sloper-brick hold. A decent rest is followed by 5.13c/d climbing to the anchors.

All in all, this route, tentatively graded 5.15b, is 5.14d to a V11 to a rest to 5.13c/d. This is Sharma's third possible 5.15b first ascent after Jumbo Love and Golpe de Estado. It is also reported that Sharma is close to doing another 5.15 first ascent--possibly the hardest yet--at Margalef: a route dubbed First Round, First Minute.

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