Twenty-three boots, from rad to trad

Not long ago, you either bought a trad shoe (stiff) or a sport shoe (painful). But nowadays, the way people wear shoes has changed — high-end tradsters will often wear the same model (sized up for comfort) on El Cap free routes they’d use on Rifle sport climbs. Still, with that in mind, it’s hard to know which shoes work best for you until you try them.

For our 2008 rock-shoe review, Climbing called in both a performance and an all-around model (all tested were slip lasted) from 12 industry shoemakers, to help you find the boot best suited to your needs. And we recruited 14 testers, from beginner to rock ace, visiting crags from Red Rock, Nevada, to Yosemite, California, to the T-Wall, Tennessee, and most points (rock and plastic) in between, putting each model through its paces. As with past reviews, we’ve awarded standouts with Climbing’s Editors’ Choice Award.

Need-to-knows: climbing shoe terminology 

FIT: The fit’s the thing — no other shoe feature is as important, which explains why one climber’s favorite kicks are another’s clodhoppers. Ultimately, the best shoe for you is the one that conforms snugly to your foot, with no dead space or pain points (read: pinching or rubbing). Hence, it’s integral that you try before you buy. We recommend trying many different brands and models — some brands run wide, others narrow; you’ll never know true performance without testing your options.

LAST: Two types of last determine the stiffness of a shoe: 1) a board last means the shoe is built on a rigid platform along the sole, good for support and edging, but not for sensitivity. This type of last seems to have become a thing of the past, as all the shoes in the 2008 review are slip lasted. 2) A slip last means the shoe will be much softer and more flexible, like a slipper, and thus more sensitive. These days, companies use midsole materials or sole inserts to increase stiffness and edging power in a shoe.

Three types of last dictate the shape of a shoe: 1) a straight last has a flat sole and puts the foot in a relaxed, natural position, like a street shoe. Straight lasts are comfy and good for all-around, multi-pitch, and crack climbing. 2) An asymmetrical last bends the foot inward, forcing the big toe into a position of power. This design offers more precision and edging ability, and thus is preferable to a straight last for sport climbing and bouldering. 3) A down-turned last, often combined with an asymmetrical last, bends the shoe downward (in a twisted banana shape). Such shoes allow you to grab incut footholds on overhangs, making them a great choice for steep terrain, but they’re often too extreme (read: painful) for everyday climbing use.

CLOSURE: There are three basic ways to keep a shoe on your foot: laces, Velcro, or elastic (slipper style), though some companies are creating hybrid closure systems, combining multiple closure systems. 1) Laces allow you to tighten the shoe so it best conforms to your foot and allows adjustment after stretching, but can be a pain to get off and on. 2) Velcro closures offer a convenient on-off transition, great bouldering and sport climbing, but it’s often harder to dial the fit than with laces. 3) The elastic of slippers is not adjustable, so you’ll need a vacuum fit for performance. (No slippers were submitted for this review.)

LINING: A lined shoe (one with a fabric layer sewn into the interior) will stretch less than an unlined shoe, thereby maintaining superior shape and performance during its lifespan. But linings can also make a shoe less breathable (and thus smellier). Most technical edging shoes are lined, while softer, high-sensitivity models (good for steeps) are designed to mold to your feet, and so go unlined. (Here, too, hybrids in the form of partial linings are being introduced, to get the best of both worlds). Both types of shoe can be comfortable if fit properly.